OME Install

by Pat Pouncey

The spring install was very easy (I am an amateur), can be done with no control arm removal or spring compressors.  There was a 4x4wire thread called OME Spring Install, I think, that basically gives you all the instructions you really need., if you want to read more.  You DO need a jack that will lift pretty high if you don't want to remove the tiresand/or use spring compressors.  I have a 3 ton Craftsman floor jack that just barely got it high enough to install the new springs.  

Here's what I did:
1. Jack up one side of the rear enough to take weight off the suspension and unbolt that sides' lower shock mount (a piece of pipe over the wrench handle or a breaker bar handle is very helpful if you don't have air tools; I don't). You can leave the tires on.

2. Continue jacking until the coil spring can be removed easily by pulling and tugging - this point wasn't at the top of my jack's range, and the stock spring can be manipulated a lot by hand.  Definitely use a jack stand under the frame to protect yourself!

3. If you're installing new shocks, it may be easier to go ahead and replace the shock (top mount only) while the spring is out.

4. The OME spring is a LOT harder to compress by hand. Jack the truck up some more until you can get the new spring in, tightly wound end pointing UP.  Since I was at the top of my jack's range, the new spring was a real tight fit on the first side I did - I used a crowbar to help me nudge it into place.  Lower the truck in small increments at first to be sure it goes in the right place; you'll be able to see the impression in the spring pad/mount that the old one left.

5. Once the spring is correct, continue lowering it until the shock is easy to bolt back to the lower mount, but stop short of putting the truck's entire weight on the suspension until everythin g is tightened up.

6. Do step 1-5 for the other side.  I found it was easier to install the new spring on the other side because the first spring helped "jack up" the suspension. 

7. Install new front shocks one side at a time. I found it necessary to remove the front wheels for this, pretty easy & you don't have to jack as high.

8. I went back and checked each bolt after the suspension was loaded with the truck's weight, just to be sure.

9. Tighten the torsion bar adjustment bolts to your liking.  Mine took about 6 complete(360 degrees) rotations to raise the front to within a half inch or so of the rear.  The rear tires now clear my stock fender flares roughly 5"; front, 4.5". Drive it around some, preferably on a rough road before deciding you're done, because the adjustment will settle some. Don't go to step 10 until you are satisfied with the new height.

10. Get a front-end alignment. Cranking the torsion bars will make your camber too negative, and cause tire wear on the inside of the tire. That's all there is to it, and good luck. It was easier than I imagined, which is always a relief


Thanks to Mark Pearson for this detailed article!
Last updated on 01/29/2002 10:13 PM