spring install was very easy (I am an amateur), can be done with no
control arm removal or spring compressors. There was a 4x4wire
thread called OME Spring Install, I think, that basically gives you all
the instructions you really need., if you want to read more. You DO
need a jack that will lift pretty high if you don't want to remove the
tiresand/or use spring compressors. I have a 3 ton Craftsman floor
jack that just barely got it high enough to install the new
what I did:
1. Jack up one side of the rear enough to take weight off the suspension
and unbolt that sides' lower shock mount (a piece of pipe over the wrench
handle or a breaker bar handle is very helpful if you don't have air
tools; I don't). You can leave the tires on.
2. Continue jacking until the coil spring can be removed easily by pulling
and tugging - this point wasn't at the top of my jack's range, and the
stock spring can be manipulated a lot by hand. Definitely use a jack
stand under the frame to protect yourself!
3. If you're installing new shocks, it may be easier to go ahead and
replace the shock (top mount only) while the spring is out.
4. The OME spring is a LOT harder to compress by hand. Jack the truck up
some more until you can get the new spring in, tightly wound end pointing
UP. Since I was at the top of my jack's range, the new spring was a
real tight fit on the first side I did - I used a crowbar to help me nudge
it into place. Lower the truck in small increments at first to be
sure it goes in the right place; you'll be able to see the impression in
the spring pad/mount that the old one left.
5. Once the spring is correct, continue lowering it until the shock is
easy to bolt back to the lower mount, but stop short of putting the
truck's entire weight on the suspension until everythin g is tightened up.
6. Do step 1-5 for the other side. I found it was easier to install
the new spring on the other side because the first spring helped
"jack up" the suspension.
7. Install new front shocks one side at a time. I found it necessary to
remove the front wheels for this, pretty easy & you don't have to jack
8. I went back and checked each bolt after the suspension was loaded with
the truck's weight, just to be sure.
9. Tighten the torsion bar adjustment bolts to your liking. Mine
took about 6 complete(360 degrees) rotations to raise the front to within
a half inch or so of the rear. The rear tires now clear my stock
fender flares roughly 5"; front, 4.5". Drive it around some,
preferably on a rough road before deciding you're done, because the
adjustment will settle some. Don't go to step 10 until you are satisfied
with the new height.
10. Get a front-end alignment. Cranking the torsion bars will make your
camber too negative, and cause tire wear on the inside of the tire. That's
all there is to it, and good luck. It was easier than I imagined, which is
always a relief