It's so easy a lobotomized pregnant baboon can do it with one arm tied behind her back. OK, well,
maybe not a pregnant one. Here are the parts and tools you'll need:
There are several sources out there but I got my parts from JC Whitney's on-line catalog (BTW, these
bushings DO fit my 2000 S):
1- Bushings For 1" Diam. Sway Bars (front)
Sku #: 88ZX7546P with small A type brackets
Unit Price: $9.95 + shiping
2- Bushings For 3/4" Diam. Sway Bars (rear)
Sku #: 88ZX7540T with small A type brackets
Unit Price: $9.95 + shipping
3- Eight 1/4" fairly thick washers. Do NOT use the stock metal brackets. They won't fit, use the new ones in the
kit. Since they are universal in size, the washers will give you a better seat for the
lockwashers and nuts/bolts.
1- 3/8" ratchet
2- 12mm socket
3- 6" extension to use on the rear bushings, they are up there!
4- Flat tip screw driver, to pry the busings from the bolts in the front.
5- A rag, that darn grease is a pain to get off your hands.
1- Get under the truck and locate the front sway bar bushings. From under the front you get the best angle unless
you are a practicing contortionist. The only thing attaching them to the sway bar are two nuts. Remove them using
the 12mm socket/ratchet.
2- Once the nuts are off, CAREFULLY pry the metal bracket from the two bolts taking care not to foul the stock
rubber bushings. Once the bracket is off (it simply slides off the bushing) slip the bushing off the sway bar by
spreading it just enought to get it off the bar. Take note which way the split on the bushing is facing. Save ALL your
3- Open the grease tube that came with the kit and generously lube the inside of the new poly bushing and
lightly coat the outside. Now's the time to use that rag. Clean your hands then use the rag to clean the part of the bar that
will come in contact with the bushing. Now slip the bushing onto the sway bar (with the split facing the way the old
bushing's did) onto the same spot the old bushing sat on.
4- Slide the new bracket over the bushing and slip the new washers and the stock lockwashers over the bolts and
thread the nuts a couple of turns onto each bolt.
5-Center the bracket on the bolts and tighten the nuts down alternating about every 5 turns, this prevents you from
pinching the bushing and promotes better, more evenly distributed seating. Don't overtighten the nuts or you'll find
yourself in a heap of trouble if you break the bolts. Repeat on the other side and you're done. If you are slow it
should take you 15 minutes per bushing.
1- Get at them from the rear, you have to slide your body past the axle to get to these guys. They can be found
way up there right next to the top of your Rancho 9000s or OME shocks. These guys are held on by bolts instead
of nuts. Use the 6" extension on your ratchet to get to them. Once you undo the bolts follow the same prep and
replacement procedure as with the front bushings. There is no need to use the screw driver here. These should
take the baboon about ten minutes per to change. Remember to keep the old bushings and brackets in a safe
place, you never know. Now go out and enjoy less lean!